In the midst of one of the busier times of the wedding season, I felt the need to give some insight into how I’ve been using my Nikon SB-5000 with my D5 and the WR-R10/WR-A10 wireless remote system. First, I need to point out that I’ve been hearing SO much mis-information about this Speedlite. Some have said it only works with a D5 or D500. While it’s true that the RF is only compatible with the D5 and D500, it still a spectacular flash that replaces the SB-910, which is a killer speedlite. The SB-5000 works great on a hotshoe, with CLS, as a slave, and has other applications as well. Plus, the recycle time is nothing short of stellar. The heat reduction system is also a great piece of technology, and this flash is a true workhorse for me.
By now, you’re either asleep, or your saying “no kidding, Cliff, tell me something I don’t know” OK. Here it is. I was driving home after a wedding one night and simply wondered if I could apply the same “flash exposure compensation” method that I use when the flash is on the hotshoe. In case you’re not aware…. When a flash is in TTL or A, and is attached to a hotshoe, and the camera is in manual mode, the flash output can be changed when pushing the exposure comp button and adjusting the command dial to increase or decrease output. This applies to just about every DSLR Nikon makes. It allows me to fine tune flash exposures quickly, and I don’t need to adjust the output ON THE FLASH. You can change it in 1/2, or 1/3 stop increments.
THIS IS THE GREAT PART…. The output of a single group on the SB-5000, when triggered by the WR-R10/WR-A10, can also be controlled by the exposure comp button + command dial in 1/3 stop increments when the system is in TTL mode. There isn’t even a need to go into ANY menu on the back of the camera when controlling one group. Let me elaborate. The TTL built into this entire system is so damn accurate, I no longer worry about nailing exposure, and I used to use manual flash mode when using OCF. I fine tune them a bit with the comp button and control dial. It’s so incredible simple, fast, accurate, and I rarely even go into the menu anymore unless I want to change the group to manual flash output mode.
So, what the hell am I talking about and why should YOU care….. In a practical application, when the bride and groom are doing their first dance, I seldom need to adjust output because the TTL is really accurate. HOWEVER, no flash metering system is perfect. SO, when I need to compensate, it’s never been more user friendly. Just a button and a dial is all you do! Press the +/- button and use the command dial. Yes, it’s that easy. Toasts- I sometimes need to tweak the output so that I don’t blow the highlight, but after the first tweak, I’m there. Crazy simple. No menu, and no trigger to mess with.
SO, I have a transmitter that weighs next to nothing, a system that basically allows me to just compose, focus, and fire, and I simply fine tune with the comp button and control dial. I can also put a flash on the hotshoe for fill, but that’s not my style. However, I know many other photographers who would love that. The hotshoe is freed up because the WR-R10/WR-A10 is in the 10 pin remote terminal, and it’s really out of the way, too.
The WR-R10/WR-A10 is much less expensive than many other triggers, and I can honestly say it’s the most reliable radio signal I’ve used, and I’ve used many. I just think if people knew how simple this system is, people would embrace it. For those shooting with the D5 and D500, it’s a must, IMHO. I’ve been enjoying this new system, and it’s been the single best purchase I’ve made this year.
